Embarking on the legendary ascent of Kilimanjaro isn’t just a physical challenge; it’s an odyssey into the heart of endurance, resilience, and self-discovery. Named “Kilimanjaro,” this majestic African giant is steeped in mystery. Its name is thought to originate from the Swahili words ‘kilima,’ meaning ‘hill’ or ‘little mountain,’ and ‘njaro,’ often associated with ‘whiteness’ or ‘shining.’ A fitting moniker for the towering peak that stands as the highest free-standing mountain globally and the tallest on the African continent.
But behind the allure of the “Roof of Africa” lies a formidable journey fraught with risks. The path to Uhuru Peak demands more than physical stamina; it exacts a toll that goes beyond the tangible. With an average annual tally of injuries and fatalities, Kilimanjaro is not for the faint-hearted. The mountain’s challenges extend beyond the ascent, into the realms of mental resilience and the capacity to endure the unforgiving elements.
In this exploration of Kilimanjaro’s heights, I will delve into the risks, the silent toll on the human spirit, and the profound endurance required to summit this iconic peak. Join me on a quest beyond the physical summit, where every step is a testament to the indomitable spirit, and the summit becomes more than a geographical conquest—it becomes a personal triumph etched in the fabric of one’s own existence. In this case my very own.
Prologue: Embarking on the Pinnacle of Dreams
As the dawn of December 2nd approached, Lui and I stood on the precipice of a decade-long dream – a journey to conquer Mount Kilimanjaro. Our excitement knew no bounds as we envisioned the challenges and triumphs awaiting us over the next six days, soaring to a breathtaking 5,895 meters above sea level. With hopeful hearts, we entrusted our safety to a higher power, eager to embrace the unfolding adventure that lay ahead.
Day 1: Marangu Gate to Mandara Hut
December 2nd, 2023
Morning: Today marked the commencement of our Kilimanjaro odyssey, a goal etched in my heart for the past ten years. Partnered with my wife, Lui, I anticipated a life-altering experience that awaited us on the “Coca-Cola Route” – the Marangu route, known for its ease and softness. The prospect of standing atop the “roof of Africa” fueled our spirits as we prepared for the climb.
As the day unfolded, we encountered the first whispers of unpredictability. The funds intended for our guide, Fedrick Choda, encountered a hiccup – declared available but elusive for withdrawal. A stroke of serendipity came in the form of a check from the company supporting us, demonstrating unwavering faith in our deposit.
Our delayed departure commenced at 10 am, three hours beyond our schedule. A two-hour drive from Arusha to Moshi followed, leading us another 30 minutes to the Marangu Route entrance.
Afternoon: Our starting point, Marangu Gate, stood at a modest 1879 meters above sea level. The path ahead stretched over 11 kilometres, promising a climb of 1000 meters in elevation gain. It was poised to be an unforgettable start to our Kilimanjaro ascent, a journey we had both longed for.
The trail unveiled a lush, green rainforest, bathed in sunlight until the heavens opened in the last 30 minutes, showering us with heavy rain. Poncho-clad and partly soaked, we reached Mandara Huts at 5:00.
Evening: After shedding our wet layers, we joined over 50 fellow climbers in the cozy mess hall. Dinner served as a communal experience, setting the stage for our meeting with Choda. Despite the challenges, our spirits were high, and our guide assessed our well-being with oxygen levels and blood pressure checks. As we retired to our aging hut, the questions posed by Frederick lingered, setting the tone for the introspective journey ahead.
We did our best to rest in a quaint and wet shelter shared with a solo traveller from China. We eagerly awaited the dawn of a new day, our bodies and minds poised for the ascent that awaited us.
Day 2: Mandara Hut to Horombo Hut
December 3rd, 2023
Morning: Embarking on Day 2, the morning sun painted the Kilimanjaro landscape with hues of promise. Despite a night of fitful sleep for Lui and me, with a mere 4 to 5 hours of rest, the dawn brought a sense of relative well-being and anticipation for the day ahead. The previous night, an erratic heartbeat had visited, perhaps a side effect of indulging in a bit too much sweetness from honey and dates
Our journey through Moorland awaited, a shift from the wet and damp terrain we left behind. With hopes high, we yearned to relish the breathtaking views of this drier, open expanse. The goal for the day was simple: immerse ourselves in the experience and reach camp with smiles on our faces.
Evening: Today unfolded as a special chapter in our Kilimanjaro saga. Covering over 11 kilometres and ascending another 1000 meters, we reached Horombo Huts by 2 pm. Moorland greeted us with its unique charm—somewhat desolate yet adorned with lush greenery and plants, a spectacle we had never witnessed before. Meandering rivers and streams added a touch of enchantment to our journey, making the long climbs worthwhile.
Lui’s grace on the slopes filled me with pride, and as we approached the camp, excitement bubbled within us. A snapshot by the Horombo Hut sign marked our achievement at an elevation of 3720 meters. The sign revealed that Kibo Hut, our next destination, was a mere 9 kilometres away, and the pinnacle, Uhuru Peak, stood only 6 kilometres beyond that. Tomorrow, we would acclimatize at Horombo Huts, but the real crescendo awaited on Tuesday, as we inched closer to the summit. The adventure was evolving into something truly exhilarating.
In the evening, our guide, Choda, unfolded his story, revealing the path that led him to become our guide. Post-dinner, we underwent blood oxygen and blood pressure tests, the results bringing a wave of positivity. My blood oxygen read 90 with a heart rate of 88, while Lui’s numbers were 95 and 109 respectively. Choda, visibly thrilled, gave us the green light to forge ahead. We were convinced that our daily regiment consisting of CoQ10, 3 to 4 litres of water and deep breathing and mediation was making a difference in our general health and well-being. The options presented—acclimatization or a direct route to Kibo Huts and Uhuru Peak—prompted a thoughtful discussion. In the end, we chose to stick to the original plan, embracing the full six days. This decision promised a balance between conquering heights and savouring the fleeting moments in a place we might never tread again. The twists and turns of Kilimanjaro had just begun to unfold.
Day 3: Horombo Hut to Zebra Rocky
December 4th, 2023
“If I can do this, I can do that.” – Unknown
In the grand tapestry of challenges, often, the greatest obstacle is ourselves. To achieve greatness, one must first conquer their own doubts and limitations. Climbing Kilimanjaro is a monumental endeavour, not suited for everyone. Yet, those who learn to master their own minds, I believe, can ascend to the summit.
Morning: Today unfolded as our acclimatization day, a familiar dance for me, having previously conquered Everest Base Camp. It’s a day that can weigh heavily on some, perhaps an accumulation of days, elevation, or both. The mind, determined to reach the top, becomes the true compass.
Afternoon: Acclimatization day, a proving ground for mental fortitude, revealed its challenges. Lui, once robust, felt a dip in strength today—likely a consequence of insufficient food and water. Setting out at 8:10, we ascended 300 meters to Zebra Rock, a breathtaking landmark resembling the skin of a zebra. The descent brought an unexpected turn as Lui, weakened and not having eaten adequately, rolled her ankle.
Back at the hut, fatigue claimed us both, and we surrendered to sleep, the mountain echoing our challenges.
Evening: Under a canopy of stars, Lui and I ventured out into the crisp, clear evening. The brilliance of unfamiliar stars hung above us, a humbling reminder of our lofty perch on one of the world’s highest mountains. The experience, bathed in the glow of starlight, held a profound significance.
Tomorrow looms as a formidable day. Our journey to Kibo Huts will demand a thousand meters in elevation gain and a nine-kilometer trek through cold, desolate landscapes. Yet, each step will propel us closer to our ultimate goal: the summit of Kilimanjaro.
As the night wrapped us in its chilly embrace, we faced the impending challenge with a mix of trepidation and excitement, knowing that every twist and turn on Kilimanjaro’s slopes carried profound lessons and unexpected beauty.
Day 4: Horombo Hut to Kibo Hut
December 5th, 2023
“I want this so bad that I can taste it.” – Unknown
Morning: At the precipice of day four, we awoke to a knock at the door, accompanied by the warmth of hot water, tea, and coffee brought by our porter, Umbeyni. A night of 7-8 hours of sleep had brought its challenges – moments of breathlessness and a persistent headache. Yet, as the rising sun painted the east, the allure of Uhuru Peak veiled in clouds fueled the awakening spirit.
After a brief rendezvous with the outside world and a glimpse of the shrouded summit, I dressed, indulged in green tea, and splashed my face with cold water to shake off the remnants of slumber.
At breakfast, I devoured fried eggs and crepes, eager to fortify myself for the challenges ahead. Lui, however, struggled with her meal. My attempts to persuade her to eat were met with resistance, leaving a lingering concern about the day ahead. The weather outside the mess hall hinted at the promise, stoking excitement for the day’s adventures.
Afternoon: As our journey commenced, the trail unfolded with deceptive ease. However, the terrain swiftly transformed, mirroring the ascent toward Uhuru Peak. The challenge wasn’t merely the incline but the diminishing oxygen levels, reminiscent of the Martian landscape—large boulders, brown-orange dirt, and an endless horizon with Kilimanjaro and Mawenzi in the distance.
Lui, unwavering, maintained a steady pace, a testament to her determination. I, in contrast, paused to capture the breathtaking surroundings, taking in the vast expanse that unfolded before us.
The sight of Kibo Huts’ roofs brought relief, but our destination still lay distant. The clock read 12:26 as we reached our second-to-last phase. Despite my steady heart rate at around 130 beats per minute, the relief of progress overshadowed any discomfort. A quick photo by the Kibo Huts sign, registration completed, and a retreat to our room marked a pause in the relentless journey.
Lunch in our room provided a moment of sustenance, followed by a much-needed rest. The plan: rise at six for dinner, followed by a brief return to sleep until 10:30 pm. The impending ascent to Uhuru Peak, slated for 11 pm, loomed on the horizon—a continuation of the adventure, a testament to resilience in the face of exhaustion. The twist in this tale: the adventure was far from over, and the summit awaited, cloaked in darkness and anticipation.
Day 5: Kibo Hut to Uhuru Peak
December 6th, 2023
“How do you eat an elephant? One bite at a time.”
“How do you climb to the summit of Kilimanjaro? One step at a time.”
Evening: Sleep, elusive in the thin air of anticipation, played a fleeting game as the night unfolded on Kilimanjaro. Dinner served unexpectedly early at 5:30 pm, marked the beginning of a restless night. The subsequent activities—briefings, blood oxygen level tests, and preparing for the climb—stretched the night until 8:20 pm, when noise from the neighbouring room finally subsided. And just as we embraced the promise of rest, the clock struck 10:15, signalling the call to ascend.
Midnight: A knock at our door at 11 pm signalled the commencement of our journey. Porter Umbeni, punctual as ever, brought popcorn and warmth in the form of tea and coffee. Lui opted for coffee, while I found solace in green tea. Guide Choda joined us, gauging our readiness despite a night bereft of sleep. Frustration lingered, intensified by our lack of rest.
Choda delivered unexpected news—assistant guide David, unwell for days, would not join us. Two porters, Albert and Ayubu, would step in. Anxiety coursed through us; two porters and one guide, an uncharted territory. Yet, we had little choice but to press on.
A group picture marked the start at precisely 11:30 pm. Cold engulfed us, intensified by the recent snowfall. The temperature, hovering around -1 or 2°C, hinted at the trials awaiting us. The climb, an unknown venture, began with a sense of optimism.
The Descent into Darkness
The initial 30 minutes of the climb were deceptively manageable, navigating through the damp cold mountain cold air and light snow. Yet, as the climb steepened, oxygen dwindled, the chill grew deeper, the snow fell harder and the landscape morphed in a dark terrain that was steeper. I had difficultly being ascertained to the steepness, but I could tell as my breath deepened and my heart rate increased. Lui’s relentless pace matched her determination, while I intermittently paused to absorb the surroundings and look back at the steepness of the hill as grew more and more.
The roofs of Kibo Huts, visible in the distance, provided a semblance of relief, but the destination remained elusive. My heart rate, a steady companion at 130 beats per minute became a secondary concern. Despite escalating exhaustion fueled by sleep deprivation and a persistent headache, I persevered without relent. I had committed to reaching the summit, and I was going to reach it at any cost.
Lui and I frequently paused along the steep ascent, taking breaks to catch our breath and hydrate. Retrieving thermoses from our porters’ backpacks, we would find a snowy rock to sit on, sipping to rejuvenate before resuming our trek—a routine we repeated frequently.
Lights from hikers below provided comfort, yet amid the undulating terrain, they intermittently vanished, leaving us feeling utterly alone and isolated.
3:00 AM: As dawn approached, yet remained ever so elusive, the summit remained distant, shrouding us in uncertainty. The path to Uhuru Peak, the highest point on Kilimanjaro, lay shrouded in darkness. The steepness increased, the snow thickened, and the cold intensified. Demoralization seeped in, and doubts crept as time elapsed without a clear sense of our location.
With no end in sight, desperation set in. I questioned our decision, worried about the consequences. Our guide, Choda, insisted he knew the way, but doubt lingered. He ventured ahead alone, leaving us with the porters in the biting cold. Anxious moments passed, and desperation grew until a miracle unfolded.
Communication between the porters and Choda in Swahili signalled a breakthrough. Gilman’s Peak, the first summit, was found. We ascended to meet him, our exhaustion momentarily overshadowed by newfound hope. The porters, cold but smiling, joined in a song—“Roof of Africa.” The melody, unfamiliar yet uplifting, reverberated through the darkness. Hundreds of meters below, other guides and porters joined in. A collective optimism emerged, a beacon in the cold, stormy night.
Reaching The Roof of Africa
The ascent continued, relentless and punishing. At 5:39 am, we reached Gilman’s Point (5685 meters), the first triumph. The realization that we were the first to conquer the mountain that night filled us with shared jubilation.
Our journey persisted through deep snow to Stella Point (5756 meters) at 6:42 am, where the struggle to stand mirrored the relentless wind and cutting ice.
A momentary slip, exhaustion taking its toll we pressed on. The wind roared, and the elements lashed us, but the infamous sign beckoned. A surge of energy propelled us forward, and with a sense of triumph, we stood next to the sign marking the summit.
In the last 10 minutes, weakness overwhelmed us. Seeking reassurance, we asked our guide Choda, “How much longer?” His response, “7 more minutes.” This gave us renewed strength and hope. Lui, profoundly fatigued had difficulty balancing and moving her feet. For the final 200 meters she required assistance.
Finally, after what seemed like an eternity, emerging through the shroud of wind and snow we saw a glimpse of the sign atop a hill. As the frost bitten sign appeared our exhaustion briefly dissipated. With all that was left in our reserves we stumbled the last 20 meters to reach Uhuru Peak at 7:40 am. At the top, fully exposed to the wind with a steep drop off, the fierce wind nearly blew my sunglasses off my face and phone out of my hand. We celebrated, captured the moment in photos, and relished the unparalleled feeling of standing atop the summit of Mount Kilimanjaro at 5985 meters above sea level.
The Cost of Ascent
Ascending Mount Kilimanjaro was an unparalleled achievement, a summit reached against formidable odds. However, the accomplishment came at a price. Severe exhaustion and frostnip, a haunting reminder of the journey’s toll, clung to our noses, lips, and toes.
Our guide, with over 65 ascents, said this was one of the most challenging. “Summit material”, he had declared us, but the gravity of that designation became apparent only during the climb. The ascent through 3 to 4 feet of snow on the supposedly ‘Coca-Cola Route’ tested our endurance and shattered preconceptions.
As we reflect on this extraordinary achievement, we acknowledge the sacrifices made. Moments of uncertainty and doubt haunted us, but through prayer and perseverance, we emerged victorious. We stood atop Africa’s tallest peak, our spirits undeterred by the fierce elements that sought to challenge our resolve.
In the grand tapestry of life, we learned that true achievement demands a cost. Our journey up Kilimanjaro exacted a toll, both physical and mental, yet the summit became a testament to the indomitable human spirit. We didn’t just climb a mountain; we overcame a challenge that will forever be etched in the annals of our lives.
Lifetime Achievement
In the aftermath of our monumental feat, a day of reflection unfolded, bringing to light the magnitude of our accomplishment. Sharing the news with friends and family, and witnessing their awe-struck reactions, it became evident—that ascending Mount Kilimanjaro was no ordinary achievement. Scaling the world’s highest free-standing mountain, a colossal task on its own, became an even more formidable challenge as we ventured over 2628 meters in just five days. A feat that, at normal elevations, might be considered challenging, but at the towering altitudes of four and five thousand meters, it transformed into an enduring odyssey. Factor in a relentless snow and windstorm, akin to a blizzard, and the challenge is elevated to a level of unparalleled resilience.
Our guide, Choda, presented us with certificates commemorating our triumph. A testament etched in ink stated, “This is to certify that Joshua Daniel Nash has successfully climbed Mount Kilimanjaro (The Highest Mountain in Africa) to Uhuru Peak 5895 meters on December 6th, 2023, at 7:40 am.” The parchment bore the weight of our accomplishment, yet like any certificate or degree, it remained just that—a piece of paper. The true essence of success lay not in the tangible certificate but in the intangible achievement, an indelible mark on our lives.
Climbing Kilimanjaro, the “Roof of Africa,” was an arduous journey through both physical and mental realms. The blustering winds, relentless snow, and sheer elevation challenged our endurance, but as we stood atop Uhuru Peak, the summit became more than a geographical conquest. It became a lifetime achievement, a testament to the resilience of the human spirit.
In the grand tapestry of life, this journey left us with more than a certificate; it bestowed upon us an enduring narrative. The blizzard may have battered us, and the altitude may have tested us, but with each step, we etched our story into the slopes of Kilimanjaro—a tale of triumph, determination, and the unwavering belief that in facing the impossible, we discover the extraordinary. The summit, shrouded in snow and clouds, now stands as a symbol not just of geographical triumph but of a journey that defines a lifetime.
Recovery and Reflections
Ascending to the summit of Mount Kilimanjaro marked a transformative chapter in our lives, a journey through a form of Hell that left us forever changed. The world, once familiar, now unfolds before us with new eyes. Our perspectives have shifted, and our lives have been irrevocably altered. Yet, amid the awe-inspiring vistas and the triumph of reaching the summit, the stark reality persists—great challenges come with a cost.
In the aftermath of our ascent, we grapple with the toll exacted by Kilimanjaro’s formidable heights. The cost, for us, manifested as extreme exhaustion and the biting consequences of windburn or frostnip, a second-phase frostbite. Both of us bear the physical remnants, with lips scorched by the relentless winds. Lui’s sense of taste, impacted by her breath’s unguarded journey through her mouth, remains elusive. We wait, hopeful that normalcy will return in the coming days.
As I confront my reflection in the mirror, a disconcerting truth unfolds. The toll on our bodies and faces is palpable—weary, aged, and adorned with unexpected white hairs. Whether this transformation occurred overnight or eluded our notice, it serves as a poignant reminder of the rapidity with which life can age us. In these moments, the fear of growing old too fast takes hold, and the desire to age gracefully becomes a silent plea.
A sense of melancholy pervades the day, and questions linger in the quiet recesses of our minds. What did we bring down from the mountain? The answer resonates—the realization that everything worthwhile comes with a cost, a price tag that life demands. In its essence, life was never meant to be free; it was designed to be challenging and arduous. And therefore we must seize the day and make the most of it.
In the silent corridors of reflection, we grapple not only with the physical toll but also with the existential understanding that the pursuit of greatness extracts its dues. Kilimanjaro demanded more than physical endurance; it asked us to confront the ephemeral nature of youth and the inexorable march of time. As we navigate the path of recovery, we confront the undeniable truth that every summit carries within it the echoes of sacrifices made, the silent price of an extraordinary journey.
A colleague recently asked me, what was the most challenging aspect of the experience of conquering the mighty mountain? Aside from the headaches, high bpm and shortness of breath, it would have been the “how much further”? It just seemed endless, especially in the dead of night on the evening we went to the summit. However, pushing aside the uncertainty and immersing ourselves in the beauty of the surroundings, coupled with the profound camaraderie among the team, dissolved the sense of endlessness. It was this profound connection that fueled my determination to overcome the hurdles of this journey, and realize the result in the end!
Josh Nash 
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